Blog : Finance

How To Save $1 Million For Retirement

How To Save $1 Million For Retirement

Starting to save early for retirement is extremely beneficial in the long run, especially if you have the dream of retiring with $1 million as so many Canadians do. It’s not an easy feat, but for most Canadians, retiring with $1 million is a realistic goal. You most likely won’t be flying private or have a butler, but retiring with $1 million means you can live comfortably (especially if you follow the 4% rule, which suggests withdrawing no more than 4% of your nest egg each year to maintain the principle, if you factor in interest rates and inflation).

So how can you actually save a million dollars? Discipline and planning will help you pave the way to seven figures by retirement. Here are 8 tips to help get you there:

1. Save early

Let’s say you’re 25, you have no real savings, your annual earned income is $40,000, and you plan to retire in 40 years. In order to retire with $1 million, you must save $502.14 each month for 40 years at a 6% rate of return.

Now let’s say you wait until you’re 45 to start saving (maybe paying off debt has held you back), and at this point you have no real savings, your annual earned income is $72,000, and you plan to retire in 20 years. In order to retire with $1 million, you must save $2164.31 each month at a 6% rate of return.

What to take away from this: It’s never too late to start saving, however, building wealth later in life or in the last decade before you retire can be really hard. To live well when you’re old means you should start to save while you’re young. Most millionaires in retirement that I know developed good spending, saving, and investing habits when they were young. Also, starting earlier gives your money more time to grow through compounding interest. Saving thousands a month right now may seem (or be) impossible, but you’re better tp start saving something.

2. Pay yourself regularly

Setting up automatic withdrawals (or “payments to yourself” as I like to look at them) from your checking account to your savings (or RRSP) is a great way to build wealth. It may be an adjustment at first (since you’re used to having that “extra” income), but you’ll get used to it pretty fast. You’ll also feel great knowing you haven’t dipped into cash you “should be” saving, and soon enough you won’t even miss the money.

What to take away from this: You’re doing something really good for yourself (and future you) by setting up automatic payments! Saving should be habitual and easy, so don’t make it painful or harder than it has to be.

3. Live within your means

This one shouldn’t come as a surprise to you! I’ve talked about living within your means before, and how you should avoid the pressure to spend and keeping up with the Joneses.

To know if you’re living above your means, answer this one question: do you carry a credit card balance that you’re having trouble paying off in full? If you answered yes, please read on.

You don’t need the biggest home or newest car (and anyone who makes you feel that way need not be in your life). Simply establish a comfortable standard of living you can maintain. Save at least 10% of your paycheque and save your bonuses (and raises) instead of spending them. If you live within your means you won’t need to dip into your reserve funds, and you can actually watch your savings grow.

What to take away from this: Earn more money, or spend less of what you earn (the latter is much easier to do).

4. Manage debt

Manage-Debt

Credit cards, lines of credit, loans, and any other debt you can think of should be managed and paid off ASAP, otherwise you risk throwing away thousands of dollars in interest each year. Even if you have to stop saving for a year or two, do it!

Oh, and maybe before you lay down the plastic again, ask yourself if you have enough cash in your checking account to cover the purchase. If the answer is no, ask yourself why you’re spending money you don’t have.

What to take away from this: Pay off your debt as quickly as possible (high interest debt first) and be responsible with your credit card(s).

5. Don’t splurge too soon

While a home may appreciate in value and help you eventually build wealth, a car depreciates the second you take it out of the lot, so consider where you’re making your big purchases. If you can afford the monthly payments on your leased Audi, great! But, if your monthly car payments are higher than your monthly RRSP contributions (or other savings), you need to reassess what you’re doing.

A new job or pay increase can be exciting and trigger a desire to upgrade, but rather than going out and buying the most expensive sports car in the lot, or the biggest house on the block (hello, house poor!) consider an option that’s somewhere between what you have now and what your dream is.

What to take away from this: Splurging too soon may throw you into debt you don’t want to be in. Also, buying top-of-the-line items right away leaves little to look forward to the next time you make a similar purchase. Spend your money thoughtfully.

6. Be frugal

Being frugal doesn’t mean you’re cheap – there is a difference! Prioritize your spending so you can have more of the things or experiences you really want. Let’s say it’s your partner’s birthday. A frugal person would probably have made dinner reservations, since it’s an occasion to celebrate. A cheap person won’t make reservations and may not even make dinner at home.

Indulging is okay; we all need it at times. But affordable indulgences are what you should be after (example: barbecue a surf n’ turf dinner at home instead of going to a pricey steakhouse). Make sure you’re spending within the lines.

What to take away from this: Understand that paying more doesn’t necessarily mean you’re getting better value.

7. Invest 

Invest

“How many millionaires do you know who have become wealthy by investing in savings accounts? I rest my case.” – Robert G. Allen

According to a study by Statistics Canada, 31% of those surveyed betweem ages 45 and 60 said their financial preparations for retirement were insufficient. Further, a study by RBC revealed 56% of non-retired Canadians were worried they wouldn’t be able to enjoy the life in which they are currently accustomed to.

Investing is one of the most powerful tools to grow your wealth. Putting all your savings into a bank account that returns 1% is not the way to grow your wealth quickly. Investing your money provides larger returns and means you could have multiple income sources, helping you rest easier in retirement.

Make sure to watch out for high and hidden fees, as they can eat away at your investments’ potential growth. Plenty of low-cost solutions for investors are popping up, and fee based advisors, like some robo-advisors, can offer unbiased investment advice, as well as help you set realistic financial goals that match your life goals.

What to take away from this: Put your money to work for you, and you eventually won’t have to work so hard for it.

8. Re-evaluate

Life changes, so don’t expect everything to go according to plan. It’s easy to say you’ll save 10% or 15% of each paycheque, but the reality is, it’s not so easy!

Inflation, income changes, emergencies, employment changes, life expectancy, and priorities (ever had a baby? It’s expensive, and wonderful!) in general can affect our financial plans. When it comes to saving, it’s always better to save more than to be sorry you didn’t.

What to take away from this: Stick to the fundamentals, and adapt as your life changes.

Retiring with $1 million doesn’t have to be a dream if you plan for it. Use my tips as guidance, and you could make your dream a reality.

 

Try out this Million Dollar Savings Calculator to see how much you should start saving each month to retire as a millionaire.

This article was written by Randy Cass, and was originally published here on June 8, 2016.

What you Need to Know About the Latest Mortgage Rule Changes

What you Need to Know About the Latest Mortgage Rule Changes

If you’ve tuned into the news today, you’ve probably heard that there are new mortgage rules coming into effect on January 1st. 2018. Over the next week you’ll most likely hear a lot of commentary on whether these rules are good, bad, necessary, or unnecessary. And no doubt someone somewhere will come to the conclusion that no one will ever get a mortgage again, and that the housing market in Canada is going to come crashing down around us. Please remember that it’s the media’s job to write headlines and attract eyes, so they tend to sensationalize everything. Take what you hear with a grain of salt. Mortgages will still be written, and houses will still be bought.

At the end of the day, these new rules (outlined below) will come into play, and there’s nothing we can do to change the government’s mind. So how do we respond? Well… as it becomes increasingly difficult to qualify for a mortgage, your goal should be to work with a mortgage professional that gives you more choices. Instead of working with a single institution; having access to a single line of mortgage products, when you work with a mortgage broker, you have access to many different lenders, with a wide variety of choices.

As mortgage rules tighten, your goal should be to find as much flexibility as possible, you do this by working with a mortgage broker. So if you have any questions about your mortgage, please don’t hesitate to contact me anytime at 416.945.9123 or by email at mat@fugeremortgage.ca , I’d love to have a conversation with you.

Okay, so on to the changes… the biggest change to the rules surrounding mortgage qualification is that a requirement to stress test each mortgage will be now applied to all borrowers, instead of just borrowers who have less than a 20% downpayment. Qualification for all mortgages will now be made at a minimum qualifying rate which is the greater of the five-year benchmark rate published by the Bank of Canada or the contractual mortgage rate +2%. 

OSFI (The Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions) released their final version of their new guidelines for the mortgage industry. Below is the news release from OSFI. called: OSFI is reinforcing a strong and prudent regulatory regime for residential mortgage underwriting

News Release

For Immediate Release

OTTAWA – October 17, 2017 – Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions Canada

Today the Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions Canada (OSFI) published the final version of Guideline B-20 − Residential Mortgage Underwriting Practices and Procedures. The revised Guideline, which comes into effect on January 1, 2018, applies to all federally regulated financial institutions.

The changes to Guideline B-20 reinforce OSFI’s expectation that federally regulated mortgage lenders remain vigilant in their mortgage underwriting practices. The final Guideline focuses on the minimum qualifying rate for uninsured mortgages, expectations around loan-to-value (LTV) frameworks and limits, and restrictions to transactions designed to circumvent those LTV limits.

OSFI is setting a new minimum qualifying rate, or “stress test,” for uninsured mortgages.

  • Guideline B-20 now requires the minimum qualifying rate for uninsured mortgages to be the greater of the five-year benchmark rate published by the Bank of Canada or the contractual mortgage rate +2%.

OSFI is requiring lenders to enhance their loan-to-value (LTV) measurement and limits so they will be dynamic and responsive to risk.

  • Under the final Guideline, federally regulated financial institutions must establish and adhere to appropriate LTV ratio limits that are reflective of risk and are updated as housing markets and the economic environment evolve.

OSFI is placing restrictions on certain lending arrangements that are designed, or appear designed to circumvent LTV limits.

  • A federally regulated financial institution is prohibited from arranging with another lender a mortgage, or a combination of a mortgage and other lending products, in any form that circumvents the institution’s maximum LTV ratio or other limits in its residential mortgage underwriting policy, or any requirements established by law.

Quote

“These revisions to Guideline B-20 reinforce a strong and prudent regulatory regime for residential mortgage underwriting in Canada,” said Superintendent Jeremy Rudin.

Quick Facts

  • On July 7, 2017, OSFI published draft revisions to Guideline B-20 – Residential Mortgage Underwriting Practices and Procedures. The consultation period ended on August 17, 2017.
  • OSFI received more than 200 submissions from federally regulated financial institutions, financial industry associations, other organizations active in the mortgage market, as well as the general public.
  • The cover letter includes an unattributed summary of the comments and an explanation of how these issues were dealt with in the final Guideline B-20.
  • Following publication of Guideline B-20 OSFI plans to assess Guideline B-21 − Residential Mortgage Insurance Underwriting Practices and Procedures for consequential amendments.

Associated Links

About OSFI

The Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions Canada (OSFI) is an independent agency of the Government of Canada, established in 1987 to protect depositors, policyholders, financial institution creditors and pension plan members, while allowing financial institutions to compete and take reasonable risks.

If You’ve Ever Tried and Failed at Budgeting

If You’ve Ever Tried and Failed at Budgeting

This article was written by Sandi Martin from Spring Personal Finance and was originally published on Spring the Blog July 21st 2015, but it was so good we wanted to share it on our blog as well!

If you’ve ever tried and failed at budgeting, or if you’ve never tried at all because it sounds so hard and boring, this post is for you. Those of you with a budgeting system that works and that you possibly even love and want to have babies with are excused for the day. Those of you who are convinced that budgeting doesn’t work are kindly asked to leave the room and do a little more thinking on that subject.

Okay, now that it’s just us, let me tell you a secret: I’ve tried (and failed) at budgeting so many times that it would be embarrassing if I sincerely thought that it was easy (it isn’t) and everyone else knew how to do it (they don’t). The truth is, budgeting is hard and boring. Anyone who tells you different has a book to sell.

But it’s still worth doing. 

Budgeting is worth doing if you have limited income and lots of commitments. It’s worth doing if you spend more than you make and have been for years. It’s worth doing if you’re naturally frugal, if you have joint accounts, if your income is hard to predict, or if you have more money than God.

The cloud of tv shows and books and blog posts (probably even this one) that swirls around the concept of budgeting obscures its value, which is:

  • To know how much we have available to spend right now, given the commitments we’ve made for the immediate future
  • To set aside money we don’t need now for things we know or think we’ll need in the future
  • To base our future spending decisions on a documented (rather than estimated) past
  • To know if a sudden or contemplated change to our income or expenses will be sustainable over the long term, and whether we should adjust our spending before it becomes a crisis

And finding a budgeting system that works for you, whatever your circumstances, is a matter of deciding why you’re budgeting in the first place…and only then deciding on a system to do it.

Starting with a system without thinking about what it has to do for you is one of the two reasons people fail at budgeting. (The other reason is that they’re using too many categories, btw.)

For example: You’re self-employed, with irregular income, joint expenses with your spouse, and a little bit of debt you’d like to get out from under. A particularly painful month makes it very clear that you’ve got to do something about your money, so you sign up for Mint. You enthusiastically set up your accounts and create a budget, logging in on your cell phone throughout the day and categorizing transactions enthusiastically…until your bank balance doesn’t quite match your Mint balance, and you realize that you forgot to budget enough for food but budgeted too much for shoes, and you were sick that week so you stopped checking whether Mint was categorizing your transactions properly, and now you’ve finally found a good deal on an almost-new freezer that you’ve been looking for for months on Kijiji and are flipping between your bank account and your Mint account trying to figure out if you can afford to take out the $400 to pay for it without throwing a major wrench into the next few weeks before your clients pay you, so…you think you’ve failed at budgeting.

Or: You and your partner work full-time at great-paying jobs, but have limited free time to do all of the million and one things you need and/or want to do, like spend time with your kids and cook at home. Every once in a while you think “we make lots of money…shouldn’t we have more to show for it?”, so one day you sign up for YNAB, take a few evenings to watch the videos, and begin assigning a job to every dollar you earn. You faithfully enter your transactions for a week, but realize your partner hasn’t been, and – given the punishing deadlines at work – probably won’t. You know you’re really supposed to enter those purchases manually, and feel kind of guilty every time you download them from the bank, and then your team starts a really exciting project, your kids finish the school year, and it’s not like you can’t pay off your credit card bill every month, and – besides – you make lots of money, so…you think you’ve failed at budgeting.

You aren’t wrong to get discouraged (although in each case you could conceivably have succeeded by dint of sheer bullheadedness). You’re just using a budgeting system not particularly well-suited for your circumstances. You’re spending your time solving a problem of lesser significance than your real problem. You’re using a rolled-up newspaper to fight off a bear, or a bazooka to get that damned chipmunk off your lawn. 

Chipmunk

Those people that we dismissed earlier? The ones who were in love with their budgeting system? They’re not us. What works for someone willing to helpfully share their opinion on reddit might not work for you for any number of very legitimate reasons.

So here’s what I propose: before you read another budgeting book, or test-drive another system, think about the most important problem you’re trying to solve. Is it really important to know how much you can spend now, and of lesser importance that you know how you spent last month? Are you trying to plan for the future and need to know what your normal and comfortable spending patterns are, but don’t have any real reason to change them?

(Some people can’t even answer this question right away. If you genuinely don’t know where to start, don’t sweat it. You’ll get there.)

I’ve failed at budgeting in the past. Many long years of trial and error, punctuated by brief bursts of book-inspired inspiration and longer bursts of discouragement have taught me this: the books aren’t necessarily wrong, anybody can make any budget system work (eventually), and chipmunks can be scared off with bazookas, but budgeting works best if you know why you’re doing it in the first place, and only then choose a tool that’s appropriate for the task.

How a Little Annual Increase can Have a Huge Impact on Savings!

How a Little Annual Increase can Have a Huge Impact on Savings!

Here is a video published by Canadian finance expert Preet Banerjee that discusses the impact simply increasing your annual contributions by 5% per year can have to your savings.

Transcript

How small increases to your savings can make a big difference to your nest egg.

You’ve probably seen examples of how saving regularly can yield impressive results over time, for example if you saved $100 per month into a portfolio earning 5% per year starting at age 18 and until you turn 65, you would end up with around $225,000. But here’s a simple tip that can yield big results.

Increase your automatic contributions every new year!

Let’s see what happened to our 18 year old’s retirement portfolio if they only increase their annual contribution by 5% every January 1st. After saving $100 per month when they were 18, they would increase their savings by5% when they were 19, 5% of $100 is simply $5 so their new contribution increases to $105 per month. In year 3 when they turned 20 they increase this again by 5%. 5% of $105 is $5.25 adding this to $105 gives us a new monthly contribution a $110.25.

If they were able to continue with the annual contributions their nest egg at age 65 would increase from around $225,000 to just over $550,000. Now annual 5% increases are painless at the beginning but can become a bit more substantial after 40 years. The take-home message is that you may want to consider increasing your savings rate whenever you can buy as much as you can and the beginning of every new year is a great time to do just that your nest egg will thank you later.

How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

Consiolidation

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

The Budgeting Resource Everyone Has (And Nobody Uses)

The Budgeting Resource Everyone Has (And Nobody Uses)

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and was originally published here on Spring The Blog on Oct. 27th 2015.

Does This Sound Familiar?

You’ve read a book or a blog series or watched a show about budgeting and getting your money under control. You’re all fired up, ready to really get it together, and get to work on that budget. The first few lines are easy:

Monthly net income? Read it off the paycheque, check.

Mortgage payment? Burned in the memory, check. Oh, man. This budgeting stuff is easy.

Groceries? Uh…well, we usually shop once a week (unless we forgot something) and it usually comes in between $120-$180…I’ll put $150.

Clothing? Oh, man. I don’t know, $50? Except in September, when the kids go back to school, and October when their feet maliciously grow and we have to buy new running shoes with only one month until the snow falls…and April, when we realize it’s too warm for winter coats and too cold for sweaters…

Entertainment? Erm…let’s say $10. I dunno, do late charges at the library count?

When the time comes to “stick to the budget” and that budget is just a series of made up numbers, what happens?

Or This?

You take the advice most people are offering about controlling your spending: you begin to track your income. You get a notebook and a pen, and you write down every penny you spend, every day. Until Thursday comes along, and you’re so busy that you just keep the receipts in the book, because you know you’ll have time on Friday and you’ll remember, but Friday becomes Saturday two weeks later, and you’re sitting in front of a pile of little pieces of paper, trying to forensically reconstruct seventeen days of spending and hoping that missing the two pocketfuls of receipts that went through the wash won’t screw you up too much.

Maybe, instead of the notebook or spreadsheet, you signed up for Mint or Quicken or YNAB instead, and you faithfully input or categorize all of your spending for almost a month. And then suddenly your checking account (according to the program) has $1,315.92 in it, when your checking account (according to reality) has $541.01. And you can’t find the mistake.

When your books are a mess and you actually have no idea how closely you’ve been “sticking to the budget”, what happens?

Protip: Use What You Already Have to Start Budgeting Well

Look, these things happen, even to someone who ::cough:: has been tracking her transactions and living on a spending plan for ::coughtenyearscough:: But when one of these is your first experience with the whole budgeting thing, it can very, very easily be your last. Or your last for a while. I truly don’t understand why the inevitable advice for first-timers is always A) write out a budget and/or B) track your spending. The only people who won’t get lost in the land of 78 spending categories and account reconciliation are the ones who probably wouldn’t have needed to read the book or watch the TV show to get themselves organized, and were going to be fine anyway.

The frustration goes away with time and practice, it really does. Any budgeting system will work if you give yourself enough time to learn and adapt to it, honestly. But why go through all the aggravation of trying to live by a guess-timated budget if you don’t have to?

Download Transactions

If you’re convinced that some part of budgeting is worth doing, then the first place to start isn’t how you’re going to spend in the future; it’s how you’ve already spent in the past.

You have years worth of data lying dormant in your bank and credit card history as we speak – a complete picture of how you spent your money when you weren’t paying attention, and accessing it is as simple as downloading a good sample size to a spreadsheet, sorting them out, and adding them up.

Easy For Me To Say

This is one of those pieces of advice that could very easily become that “just” advice that I hate so much.

I use spreadsheets every day (and love every minute of it) so this is an easy thing for me to do and recommend. If you don’t speak spreadsheet very fluently, this exercise might be as frustrating as trying to guess how much you’re going to spend on clothes in the next _insert arbitrary period of time here_.

But, like most things prefaced with “just”, it might be worth your time and effort to try. If you have even a passing familiarity with rows, columns, and cells, and know how to use the “sort” function, examining your past spending in aggregate is a good way to set yourself up for success with your future spending.

Why start with a guess when you can start with data?


Note: Some readers have mistakenly read this as a recommendation to use spreadsheets to track ongoing spending, to which I can only say: please don’t use spreadsheets to track your spending unless you’re a confirmed spreadsheet ninja. /PSA


 

Just How Big is the Canadian Mortgage Market Really?

Just How Big is the Canadian Mortgage Market Really?

With all the government changes happening in the mortgage market right now, the good people over at Mortgage Professionals Canada via their online publication Canadian Mortgage Trends just published an interesting couple of articles on their blog. Most recently “How Big is Canada’s Mortgage Market” gives perspective to just how much money is leant annually through mortgage financing, while providing context to the importance of their recent article “DOF Challenged in Parliament”

Here are both of these articles in their entirety. If you have any questions about what is going on with mortgages, or want to have a look at your financial situation to see where you stand, please contact me anytime at 416.945.9123 or by email at mat@fugeremortgage.ca

Oh, and if you just want to know how big the Canadian mortgage market is – well, estimates would say that over $400 Billion in mortgages is written each year in Canada. That is a lot of money.

How Big is Canada’s Mortgage Market?

Thems are some big shoes

When it comes to the total mortgages arranged in Canada each year (by all lenders), definitive data isn’t easy to find. So we have to rely on estimates.

CIBC economist Benjamin Tal is one of the best estimators out there. And his latest figures suggest the market is a lot bigger than some in our business may think.

The estimates we typically cite for annual residential mortgage originations range from about $210 to $250 billion. But that doesn’t include renewals.

By Tal’s calculations, the total of all residential mortgages negotiated or renegotiated in 2016 was $405 billion. This figure is a much truer indication of what the theoretical potential market is for mortgage lenders.

This data includes purchases, refinances and renewals of owner-occupied and residential investment properties (including 1- to 4-unit and 5+ unit residential properties).

Tal writes that the total number is up 5.5% over 2015. Canada’s “typical” home price rose 13% in the same timeframe, according to Royal LePage data. But with insurers already citing a 15-20% drop in business since the mortgage rule changes, 2017 volumes won’t be as rosy.

DoF Challenged in Parliament

Ottawa Canada. November 14th 2016 - Parliament of Canada on Parliament Hill in Ottawa
Ottawa Canada. November 14th 2016 – Parliament of Canada on Parliament Hill in Ottawa

MPs are questioning why the Liberal government took liquidity out of the refinance market, and Dan Albas is one of the most vocal.

In the House of Commons yesterday, the Conservative MP charged the Department of Finance with “Increasing interest costs on refinanced mortgages.” This of course is a result of the Finance Minister’s ban on default insuring refinances. The move has decimated competition in the refi space, which Albas says “hurts middle-class Canadians.”

“Will the Liberals reverse this punitive and damaging change?” he questioned on his Facebook page today. Albas asked the equivalent in Parliament yesterday, to which the Parliamentary Secretary to the Minister of Finance responded but, “didn’t answer the question at all!” Albas charges.

Here’s a video of that exchange…

This debate followed hours of testimony these past two weeks about the new mortgage rules. Those hearings were held by Parliament’s Finance Committee and included 38 expert witnesses.

In an opinion piece today that touched on the hearings, Albas said:

As the public servants involved in this area could not provide a coherent reason for this punitive [refinance] policy, a motion I put forward to have the Finance Minister appear directly before the Finance Committee was adopted thanks in part to some Liberal MPs voting in support.

It appears, however, the Finance Minister is sending others to talk for him (on Monday), namely:

  • Ginette Petitpas Taylor, Parliamentary Secretary to the Minister of Finance
  • Rob Stewart, Associate Deputy Minister, Department of Finance
  • Cynthia Leach, Chief, Housing Finance, Capital Markets Division, Financial Sector Policy Branch, Department of Finance

CMHC head Evan Siddall will also speak at the same meeting. Siddall has been quoted by Bloomberg as saying lenders have “no skin in the game” and “misaligned” incentives, which he later called a misstatement on his part. So the mortgage industry will be watching for any new bombs he might drop on Monday.

Clarity, Ownership, and Structure in 2017.

Clarity, Ownership, and Structure in 2017.

Over the last three years, Canadian financial blogger Sandi Martin from Spring Personal Finance has released a series of posts with her dreams for her clients in each 2015, 2016, and now 2017. It started with finding clarity, then taking ownership, and now the series is brought together by the idea of structure. Nothing to do with conventional definitions of success and everything to do with freedom (her words). Here is the third instalment titled “What I Want for You in 2017” written by Sandi Martin, with links to the previous years posts. Let these words and ideas resonate with you and inspire you as 2017 is most certainly a year of possibility!

What I want for you in 2017

What I dearly want for you this year is structure.

(Just what you’d expect from an introverted money nerd who once answered “spreadsheets” when asked to name one thing that made her happy to her son’s kindergarten circle, am I right?)

Listen, when you hear “structure” I don’t want you to think about restrictions. The kind of structure I’m wishing for you has nothing to do with timetables, spreadsheets, or checklists (unless you’re into those sorts of things). I’m not trying to convince you to track your time, food, or money in a little book somewhere, or to twist yourself into knots in an endless pursuit to maximize, optimize, or anything-ize your life according to whatever “10 Ways Successful People Brush Their Teeth” article that’s making the rounds this week.

The kind of structure I want for you has nothing to do with conventional definitions of success (higher net worth! efficient use of time! productivity! peak performance!) and everything to do with freedom — within whatever circumstances life has placed you in — to be more you and to live more life.

What is structure, after all, but the invisible stuff that does the boring work of supporting the important stuff?

Let’s rewind a bit, because this is really part three of a story I’ve been telling for years.

In 2015, I wanted you to have clarity, remember?

How would your life be better if you were absolutely clear about what you want your life to look like, the resources you have or will have at your disposal, and the obstacles that you’ll have to get over, around, or through to make it happen?

Pursuing clarity means paying attention. Often in financial planning, as in most data-heavy professions, we encourage you to pay attention to easily measurable things like how you spend your money, how it’s invested, and what you’re going to spend it on over the next five, fifteen, or thirty years.

But how do you feel?

It’s equally important to pay attention to how satisfied/restless/anxious you are today and how excited/worried/unhappy you about tomorrow, and how those feelings change with new information, a change in direction, or sometimes something as simple (seeming) as the weather/news/that vexing update on Facebook.

Pursuing clarity means keeping your eyes open to the (changing) combination of circumstances that give you a sustained feeling of contentment with both the present and the future.

In 2016, I wanted you take ownership. To get comfortable with your own definition of success, to stop apologizing for the ways your direction veers away from the conventional path or looks like someone else’s definition of failure. To fearlessly be the most authentic version of you. To trade away the things that don’t fill you up for things that do.

To outsiders, your contented, authentic self might look too lazy, too ambitious, too social, not social enough, materialistic, ascetic, too involved with your kids, not involved enough at your church…there’s an infinite number of ways that a well-meaning community, predatory marketers, and privileged bloggers can make you feel bad about all the things you aren’t doing well enough or aren’t doing period. Don’t let them (not even me).

Well, that’s easy to say

Exactly. That’s why we need structure.

I’ll give you some examples of structure that flows from clarity and ownership in my own life. Be warned, though: they’re not particularly counter-cultural. Anyone who’s spent more than five minutes with me knows I’m a natural-born Hufflepuff: unambitious, stubborn, plodding…in short: boring and proud of it, so don’t expect anything earth-shattering.

First example: I finally realized that Facebook vexes me, and that although I love all (most of) the people I’m friends with and want to stay connected with what’s happening in their lives, I don’t want to mindlessly scroll through a newsfeed full of whatever Facebook has decided I should look at today. The happiest me is one who connects with people, not an algorithm, and I’m okay with missing a few things and being out of touch by not constantly checking in. It might not sound like structure to you, but the simple act of deleting the app from my phone stopped the mindless scrolling. It’s just not something I do on my laptop. 

Another example: For the longest time, I thought I had to have free bank accounts and the best rewards credit card, because only dummies pay service fees or miss out on points, right? This led to a soul-sucking tangle of accounts that took tremendous mental energy to sort through every two weeks. I’m my happiest self when I’m reconciling accounts, absolutely…but not when reconciling accounts and transferring money all over creation is stealing time and energy away from more important things. With inspiration from my good friend Chris, I drew a picture of the fewest number of accounts that will still keep my business and personal stuff separate, and it’s so streamlined that I reconciled my bank accounts on New Year’s Eve. For fun.

One last example, I promise: Last year I realized just how frazzled it made me to fit focused work in between meetings and phone calls every day of the week while still leaving enough space to be with my family, serve my community, visit friends, and read a book or two. I’m my happiest self when I have big stretches of time to spend on whatever I want without rushing to the next thing, so I stopped scheduling meetings outside of Mondays and Tuesdays. I was worried that clients would be upset, colleagues would give up on me, and potential clients would call somebody else, but clients weren’t, colleagues didn’t, and potential clients might have but I’ll never know the difference.

(I warned you I was boring)

Let me sum up: Structure is intentionally designing the default settings of your life to align with what you want it to be. It’s automatic permission to be a little more yourself. Structure is saying no to a lot of things that don’t mean much at all so you can say yes to the few things that mean a lot.

In 2017, what I want most for you is to get clear about what fills you up, get brave about pursuing it even in the face of opposition, and set yourself up to say no to everything else.

2016 Year End Tax Tips

2016 Year End Tax Tips

As financial literacy month winds down, now is a great time to review your personal finances and take advantage of any tax planning opportunities that are available to you (before the December 31st deadline). Here are some tax tips you might want to consider to help reduce your 2016 taxes:

Making RRSP Contributions

This year the deadline for RRSP contributions is March 1, 2017, which means you have about 3 months left to contribute for the 2016 tax year. If you’ve contributed the maximum amount in previous years your 2016 contribution room is limited to 18% of your 2015 income (with a maximum contribution of $25,370), excluding any pension adjustments. Remember, contributions made as early as possible will maximize tax-deferred growth!

Paying Investment Expenses

To claim a tax deduction (or credit) this year, investment-related expenses must be paid. This includes things like interest paid on money borrowed for investing, or investment advising fees.

TFSA Contribution Reminder

The contribution limit for a TFSA in 2016 is $5,500. Luckily, there is no deadline to contribute to your TFSA!

If you haven’t previously contributed to a TFSA you can contribute up to $46,500 this year (as long as you are at least 18 years old and have been a resident in Canada since 2009).

Making Charitable Donations

It’s the season of giving! The last day you can make a donation and receive a tax receipt is December 31st. Lots of charities accept online donations and offer electronic tax receipts (most likely emailed to you instantly).

For Families with Kids

Education and Textbook Amounts 

This is the last year to claim education and textbook tax credits (they are being eliminated January 1, 2017).

Claiming Federal Credits for Children’s Activities

This is also the last year you can claim two popular federal credits for your kids’ activities. If you don’t think you’ll spend enough to maximize these credits this year, perhaps consider prepaying these expenses for 2017. For example, if you’re planning on enrolling your kid in hockey or violin lessons in 2017, pay for the activities by December 31, 2016 and you can claim the credit(s).

When it comes to your finances, the earlier to you act the more likely you are to benefit from tax savings when you go to file your 2016 personal tax return. Of course, you should check with your accountant or tax advisor for your particular situation to see how you can reduce your taxes.

This article was originally written by Randy Cass and published here, on November 25th 2016.

When Prime Rates Differ?

When Prime Rates Differ?

Although the recent changes to mortgage qualification introduced by the government were intended to create stability in the Canadian housing market, the unintended consequences might have been to make the waters a little muddier. For the first time, it looks like Canadians weighing their mortgage options will have to be aware that not only do different lenders offer different products at different rates, but that the baseline for rate calculation might be different between lenders as well. Comparing apples to apples and oranges to oranges just became more difficult.

You see, in response to these latest changes by the government, last week TD announced that it was raising its TD Mortgage Prime rate to 2.85%, up from 2.70% effective November 1st, 2016. Speculation was that the other major banks would follow suit, however it’s a week later, and still we have no action. This is clearly a pre-emptive move by TD in anticipation of higher mortgage funding costs. And you can’t hold it against them, banks are really good at making money, and they do that by charging interest on lending products to consumers. Well, that and debit transaction fees, but that’s an entirely different topic altogether.

Customers with fixed rate mortgages will be unaffected by these changes, however variable rate mortgage holders will now be paying more interest at TD than any other bank in Canada. But here is where things get complicated, although variable rate mortgages are based on the prime rate (which is now not consistent between all lenders) there is usually what is called a “component to prime”, so it’s usually prime rate, plus or minus a component. At the time this was published most lenders are offering a discount of around a half a percentage point on their variable rate products. With a higher prime rate, TD could effectively offer a deeper discount, and appear like they are offering the lowest rate on the market, but in actual fact, they would be at a higher effective rate.

This certainly isn’t meant to be a slam against TD bank, TD has offered some great products in the past, and will no doubt continue to do so. The main point of this article is simply:

Banks are in the business of making money, mortgage brokers are in the business of taking care of their clients.

With all the products available on the market, how do you know which one is best for you? That’s where I come in. I am an independent mortgage professional, my obligation is to you, my job is to know the ins and outs of all the products offered by different lenders, so that you don’t have to. So regardless of what bank is offering what prime with whatever discount, you have someone who sees through the noise, assesses your needs, and recommends a mortgage solution that is best for you.

If you have any questions, or would like to discuss your mortgage, please contact me anytime at 416.945.9123 or by email at mat@fugeremortgage.ca , I would love to hear from you!